EDINBURGH

My soul city!! With it’s stunning Georgian architecture, Edinburgh is often called the Bath of the North. Edinburgh is a city meant to get lost it—with it’s tall buildings and winding closes, explore and wander and bike to get to know it. It’s very traversable by foot although there also also city buses and trams that can help you bop around. And of course, when you’re in Scotland, be sure to rent a car or take the train out into the highlands—let me assure you there’s nothing else like it. Cue: Streets of Edinburgh.

To Drink

Caffeinated

Wellington Coffee

One of my favourite cafes, tucked into the basement along Princes Street. Not a ton of seating but heavenly coffee.

The Bearded Baker

Another personal favourite—divine coffee, vegan cinnamon rolls, sourdough donuts, and sandwiches made on local (Bross) bagels. Very small, with limited seating, but a beautiful spot. The cinnamon buns sell out early so make sure you don’t sleep in! It will be worth it, I promise.

Cairngorm Coffee

A big, beautiful cafe in the West End—lots of seating and big, beautiful windows. Great coffee and great toasties (grilled sandwiches).

Gordon Street Coffee

Originally from Glasgow (on Gordon Street, surprise!) Gordon Street is relatively new to Edinburgh; behind the train station.

Castello Coffee

A charming wee cafe on Castle Street in town serving Nanaimo bars just like home!

Lanan

A POPULAR and delish bakery—a must if you can spare the time as there’s often a line up. The baker has also opened Lanan Pantry.

Boozy

The Queen’s Arms

My favourite pub, filled with books (surprise!).

Brewhemia

Enough room for dancing and craft beer on tap!

Rabble

Just off George Street, a nice spot for a drink.

Veeno

A great wine bar on Rose Street (just behind Princes Street); we did a tasting and a charcuterie board and it was as good as you can imagine.

To Eat

Mary’s Milk Bar

My favourite ice creamery in Edinburgh, right in he heart of Haymarket. It looks onto the castle, so grab your ice cream and settle in for the view. New and seasonal flavours rotate—I still dream about the hot cross bun ice cream I had at Easter. There will be a line on a hot day!

Dishoom

My favourite brunch spot, served until 12pm. Get bottomless chai and the egg naan roll.

El Cartel

Amazing Mexican food!

Franco Manca

A London-based pizzeria that’s newly opened! Highly recommend.

The Pakora Bar

I still think of the pakora I got here late one night with some friends; dreamy to say the least.

The Scran & Scrallie

Owned by a Michelin star chef (but without the prices!); amazing food and located in the dreamy Stockbridge.

Cafe Andaluz

The best tapas in Edinburgh in my opinion! The one on George Street is best.

Miller & Carter Steakhouse

A high-end steakhouse.

To See & Do

The Royal Mile

In old town; historic Edinburgh at it’s finest, leading up to the castle. Take a wander along here.

Edinburgh Castle

A must-do for the first-time Edinburgh experience.

Princes Street Gardens

The best spot for a picnic, in my opinion, with bustling Princes street behind it and the Castle in front.

The National Museum of Scotland

A great museum and in THE most beautiful building; go sit in the atrium for ambiance if nothing else.

Stockbridge Market

Open Sundays; a small market but with some lovely stalls. Stop off at Soderberg Stockbridge for a cardamum bun (the best Scandinavian style-one in town!) and a coffee before or after, and then wander around. While you’re in Stockbridge, make sure you walk down Circus Lane for pretty and iconic Edinburgh.

Royal Botanic Gardens

Beautiful in every season.

Mary King’s Close

Closes are the narrow, winding alleys that snake through Edinburgh, dating back to when it was a walled city (that’s why it’s so tall! The old town built up instead of out because of the walls). This tour brings you down below the current-levels of the Edinburgh streets to one of the original closes. Definitely worth it!

The Whiskey Experience

What’s Scotland without Scotch! A great tour for everyone in your party (those who like and don’t like Scotch) that gives you a background on how it’s made, and a selection to try. We went to the dining room and it’s one of the best meals I’ve ever had!

Arthur’s Seat

The mountain/hill that overlooks Hollyrood Palace; well-worth the climb to the top, and if you don’t feel like climbing the whole way you can park at the bottom.

Holyrood Palace

The Queen’s official residence in Scotland; it’s beautiful inside (no surprise) and has a stunning ruined church on the grounds. A must, in my books. Right up from the Palace, on the Royal Mile is Clarinda’s Tea House, which is a delicious spot for lunch or a wee pick-me-up.

The Meadows

A spot to meet and picnic!

The Edinburgh Tattoo

A military parade in the summer—a must if you can!

TO Explore Neighbourhoods

Old Town

Old town is (shockingly) the oldest part of Edinburgh—what is the original walled city. It’s on one side of Waverly Station and is easily walkable (although hilly). Make sure you do the Royal Mile (this starts at Holyrood and ends at the castle). It’s full of closes (alleys) and the beautiful brick. Edinburgh University is over here, the main library, and St. Giles Cathedral. You’ll be sure to see a bagpiper or two, here.

New Town/West End

The, of course, new parts of Edinburgh here. You’ll find Princes and George Street here for shopping.

Stockbridge

One of my favourite neighbourhoods. There’s a Saturday market, great cafes, and charity shops to browse.

Queensferry

Best known for it’s iconic Forth Bridge, it has some spots to eat and wander (we ventured down for poutine!) but the main thing to see is the bridge, in my opinion. You’ll see it if you head across to Fife on the train. (The saying, “it’s like painting the Forth Bridge, is from this bridge!)

Leith

Also known as “the Shore”, Leith is an old port town. Now it’s buzzing with pubs and restaurants. There is also a historic schooner you can go on too. Leith is a must-see (while listening to Sunshine on Leith, of course).

Portobello

Portobello is a lovely seaside spot outside of town; a lovely high street with some nice shops, and a beautiful promenade along the ocean. Stop for a coffee at Twelve Triangles, a browse at Portobello Books, and lunch from Bross Bagels.

TO DAY TRIP

(or not to day trip, as if!)

Loch Lomond

Unbelievably beautiful; a must while you’re here. There’s bus tours you can take here that will make other stops along the way like the Selkies.

Glasgow

About a 50 minute train ride. Glasgow is the working class twin to Edinburgh. It’s graffiti and shipbuilding—a must-visit. My recommendations for Glasgow :)

North Berwick

North Berwick is the seaside town of the southeast Scottish coast. It is small and darling and one of my absolute favourite places in Scotland (!). Easily accessible for the day, take the train and go to the beach, get amazing gelato, and sit along the beach.

St. Andrews

Another day trip! Home of golf and royalty, St. Andrews is a lovely town to wander through—I wandered on my first birthday in Scotland. There’s some beautiful national heritage sites there (a castle and a church) and more beautiful cafes.

Linlithgow

A small town outside Edinburgh that has a great castle and grounds to walk around.

TO Festival

The Christmas Market

This sets up mid-November and goes through into January. Beautiful stalls and rides with a food market and endless amounts of mulled wine; magical. Make sure you eat a mince pie!

The Edinburgh Book Festival

Two weeks in August! Book-lovers paradise.

The Edinburgh Fringe Festival

(Obviously.)

To Shop

Golden Hare Books

My favourite bookshop in Edinburgh, as a bonus it’s in the delightful Stockbridge!

A Rare Bird

A new, lovely bookshop in Stockbridge.

Curiouser & Curiouser

My favourite boutique in the city!

Lifestory

A boutique in Bonnington.

George Street

The main shopping street in the city. Home of Anthropologie. Oliver Bonas is also around the corner.

Princes Street

Princes street is a mix of tourist shops and nicer shops.